Huaer 608 Batteries: 8+ hours at 36000'
I recently opted for a 17" "Desktop Replacement" Notebook computer. More video options, two hard drive bays and higher capacity batteries were of interest.
Where are the Higher Capacity Batteries?
I originally wanted a Dell 17" with 1920x1200 and a GeForce Go 7900 series, but they wanted way too much money -- typically over $2,000 before warranty (even after eBay coupons, since many deeper discounts have never been applicable on the higher-end models which already have good discounts). And because of our strong consumer laws, Dell does not offer it's "Accidental Damage/Coverage" plan in Florida, which really kills any benefits of buying a Dell. The non-consumer/non-small business replacement plans for businesses, which are open to Florida, are far, far more expensive, and even HP is cheaper (if you can get a good discount on HP).
So I waited and waited and I finally opted for an HP 17" (dv9000 series) with an upgraded 1680x1050 display and the GeForce Go 7600 series when they had a deep discount at OfficeDepot.COM. I actually wanted a HP Pavilion dv9000t with the Intel Core 2 Duo, but with almost $400 in rebates (and a good $600 cheaper than the best dv9000t at the time), a fully loaded HP Pavilion dv9000z Turion TL-50 (I should have gone for the TL-52 with 2x the cache for $25 more -- doh!) was hard to resist at $800 after rebates HP+OfficeDepot.COM rebates (of which, I've gotten all but $25, which I just got notice of 2 weeks ago -- HP is always fast, OfficeDepot.COM is damn too slow). At $800, I considered it almost disposable after 1 year anyway, so I didn't opt for the extended warranties beyond 1 year (which start at $99 and $199 for 2 and 3-year "no frills" and at $249 and $399 -- half the price of the notebook! -- for 2 and 3-year accidental coverage).
I figured I could find an after-market battery for less, so I just took the standard 14.4V @ 4400mAh (63Wh). In actuality, I can't even find any higher capacity battery for the 9000 series right now, and the 63Wh units are hard to find for anything less than their $160 list. UPDATE: NewEgg.COM finally has them for under $120 now, but I still can't find anything but the 63Wh units for the 9000 series.
150+ Minutes Battery ... Until I Flip on the 3D (Ouch!)
Overall I'm more than satisfied with the basic 63Wh (14.4V, 4400mAh) battery in the 9000 series during nominal 2D operation of the Turion x2, at even DVD playback, giving me a solid 150+ minutes (2.5+ hours). I can often get even 180+ minutes (3+ hours) with standard, non-constant usage (display off, suspend, etc... anything short of hibernation). And from the commonly A/C-provided DC input (19V @ 4.74A = 90W), the GeForce Go 7600 might not be a Go 7900, but it does get within 40-50% of its performance for a lot less juice. Unfortunately, it might as well be the same power pig as the 7900 when running on battery!
Because when I fire up the Go 7600 (G73 GPU) on battery, even with the reduced power usage at the expense of performance, I'm lucky to get 75+ minutes with Linux's Power over Performance setting, and virtually sub-60 minutes under Windows. The combination of coming out of hibernation for boot and going back into hibernation when the battery is low will result in little more than 60 minutes "actual playing time." Not good for switching 63Wh batteries. Not good at all, but not unexpected by me either. I had an original Toshiba Satellite 2805-S402 (released spring of 2001) with the original nVidia Go Mobile (NV11 GPU -- GeForce2 MX equivalent) that sucked up the juice 2-2.5x as fast too (back when NiCD was common, and my original battery didn't last me a year!).
Since I can't seem to find an extended battery (8000mAh?), I considered getting a second, standard (14.4V@4400mAh, 63Wh) battery. Of course, having to rehibernate and unhibernate is, again, a pain and takes down the battery a good 10-20% with the constant disk usage for those few minutes (more like 10-20 in "battery time"). I figured I should look elsewhere for additions options, and so I looked external. Especially since most external batteries have an "off switch" to prevent constant use/drainage (such as by internal Lithium regulatory logic).
Looking at External Options
First off, I didn't want to dork with anything that couldn't output 19V, even though the battery is 14.4V. A number of sites say that all you need is what your internal battery provides as DC, not necessarily what your A/C adapter provides as DC output. Although I consider myself far from a practical electrical technologist (being a theory-heavy EE, and even then I've done too much digital), that sounded like someone applying the 1.2->1.5V store/operating potential in the wrong direction, and a recipe for issues. So off-the-bat, I went looking something that would provide 19V output to the dv9000z's 19V input as if it was a "full 19V DC" from the A/C adapter.
Secondly, I refreshed myself on newer battery technologies. I know most notebooks use Lithium Ion (Li-Ion) rechargeable batteries, as do most portables that require at least 7.2V (hence why you don't see rechargeable Li-Ion used in AA form-factors, where either NiCD/NiMH rechargable or non-rechargeable Lithium are 1.2/1.5V in 2000-2500mAh AA or 700-900mAh AAA). I don't like the idea of Li-Ion, especially after the recent Sony battery issues (of which my HP has one, although there is no recall because HP-Sony believe their designs are different). In fact, when using any external battery with my notebook -- given current FAA recommendations on not using any input that may charge a Li-Ion battery (the most likely case where it will explode) -- I was not going to leave my internal Li-Ion battery in it. And 7.2V fuel-cell isn't here yet either, let alone it's no safer and even more questionable *although companies like UltraCell are getting FAA approval for some products).
Third, if I figured I was going to get an external battery, I wanted to find something flexible in output, possibly with multiple. Most of the notebooks I buy have 19V DC output A/C adapters, although 14-16V would be nice too. Many other, external devices are often 12V, such as external hard drives and DVD players. And even if it only had an additional, 5V option, that would be nice for recharging many small or hand-held devices, like my Treo phone. USB-provided +5V would be even better, although there are many, generic +5V power cable adapters to USB too.
Huaer 608 Series: +5V, +12V and +16V or +19V options
After extensive research, I finally decided on a relatively new option. After much investigation, I found that Huaer Electronics Limited, based on out of Hong Kong -- yes, Chinese, not Japanese -- had the best solution I had seen yet. Although they are relatively new (founded in the late '90s), in the wake of Sony's battery fiasco, Huaer had been aggressively marketing various distributors with its replacement batteries for Dell, Gateway, Toshiba and the handful of other OEMs with recalls. After all, even many of Sony's batteries are now fabbed in China as well, as brand name means squat these days.
The Huaer 608 series, also distributed by Ovone (among other OEMs), offers three (3) key outputs:
Where are the Higher Capacity Batteries?
I originally wanted a Dell 17" with 1920x1200 and a GeForce Go 7900 series, but they wanted way too much money -- typically over $2,000 before warranty (even after eBay coupons, since many deeper discounts have never been applicable on the higher-end models which already have good discounts). And because of our strong consumer laws, Dell does not offer it's "Accidental Damage/Coverage" plan in Florida, which really kills any benefits of buying a Dell. The non-consumer/non-small business replacement plans for businesses, which are open to Florida, are far, far more expensive, and even HP is cheaper (if you can get a good discount on HP).
So I waited and waited and I finally opted for an HP 17" (dv9000 series) with an upgraded 1680x1050 display and the GeForce Go 7600 series when they had a deep discount at OfficeDepot.COM. I actually wanted a HP Pavilion dv9000t with the Intel Core 2 Duo, but with almost $400 in rebates (and a good $600 cheaper than the best dv9000t at the time), a fully loaded HP Pavilion dv9000z Turion TL-50 (I should have gone for the TL-52 with 2x the cache for $25 more -- doh!) was hard to resist at $800 after rebates HP+OfficeDepot.COM rebates (of which, I've gotten all but $25, which I just got notice of 2 weeks ago -- HP is always fast, OfficeDepot.COM is damn too slow). At $800, I considered it almost disposable after 1 year anyway, so I didn't opt for the extended warranties beyond 1 year (which start at $99 and $199 for 2 and 3-year "no frills" and at $249 and $399 -- half the price of the notebook! -- for 2 and 3-year accidental coverage).
I figured I could find an after-market battery for less, so I just took the standard 14.4V @ 4400mAh (63Wh). In actuality, I can't even find any higher capacity battery for the 9000 series right now, and the 63Wh units are hard to find for anything less than their $160 list. UPDATE: NewEgg.COM finally has them for under $120 now, but I still can't find anything but the 63Wh units for the 9000 series.
150+ Minutes Battery ... Until I Flip on the 3D (Ouch!)
Overall I'm more than satisfied with the basic 63Wh (14.4V, 4400mAh) battery in the 9000 series during nominal 2D operation of the Turion x2, at even DVD playback, giving me a solid 150+ minutes (2.5+ hours). I can often get even 180+ minutes (3+ hours) with standard, non-constant usage (display off, suspend, etc... anything short of hibernation). And from the commonly A/C-provided DC input (19V @ 4.74A = 90W), the GeForce Go 7600 might not be a Go 7900, but it does get within 40-50% of its performance for a lot less juice. Unfortunately, it might as well be the same power pig as the 7900 when running on battery!
Because when I fire up the Go 7600 (G73 GPU) on battery, even with the reduced power usage at the expense of performance, I'm lucky to get 75+ minutes with Linux's Power over Performance setting, and virtually sub-60 minutes under Windows. The combination of coming out of hibernation for boot and going back into hibernation when the battery is low will result in little more than 60 minutes "actual playing time." Not good for switching 63Wh batteries. Not good at all, but not unexpected by me either. I had an original Toshiba Satellite 2805-S402 (released spring of 2001) with the original nVidia Go Mobile (NV11 GPU -- GeForce2 MX equivalent) that sucked up the juice 2-2.5x as fast too (back when NiCD was common, and my original battery didn't last me a year!).
Since I can't seem to find an extended battery (8000mAh?), I considered getting a second, standard (14.4V@4400mAh, 63Wh) battery. Of course, having to rehibernate and unhibernate is, again, a pain and takes down the battery a good 10-20% with the constant disk usage for those few minutes (more like 10-20 in "battery time"). I figured I should look elsewhere for additions options, and so I looked external. Especially since most external batteries have an "off switch" to prevent constant use/drainage (such as by internal Lithium regulatory logic).
Looking at External Options
First off, I didn't want to dork with anything that couldn't output 19V, even though the battery is 14.4V. A number of sites say that all you need is what your internal battery provides as DC, not necessarily what your A/C adapter provides as DC output. Although I consider myself far from a practical electrical technologist (being a theory-heavy EE, and even then I've done too much digital), that sounded like someone applying the 1.2->1.5V store/operating potential in the wrong direction, and a recipe for issues. So off-the-bat, I went looking something that would provide 19V output to the dv9000z's 19V input as if it was a "full 19V DC" from the A/C adapter.
Secondly, I refreshed myself on newer battery technologies. I know most notebooks use Lithium Ion (Li-Ion) rechargeable batteries, as do most portables that require at least 7.2V (hence why you don't see rechargeable Li-Ion used in AA form-factors, where either NiCD/NiMH rechargable or non-rechargeable Lithium are 1.2/1.5V in 2000-2500mAh AA or 700-900mAh AAA). I don't like the idea of Li-Ion, especially after the recent Sony battery issues (of which my HP has one, although there is no recall because HP-Sony believe their designs are different). In fact, when using any external battery with my notebook -- given current FAA recommendations on not using any input that may charge a Li-Ion battery (the most likely case where it will explode) -- I was not going to leave my internal Li-Ion battery in it. And 7.2V fuel-cell isn't here yet either, let alone it's no safer and even more questionable *although companies like UltraCell are getting FAA approval for some products).
Third, if I figured I was going to get an external battery, I wanted to find something flexible in output, possibly with multiple. Most of the notebooks I buy have 19V DC output A/C adapters, although 14-16V would be nice too. Many other, external devices are often 12V, such as external hard drives and DVD players. And even if it only had an additional, 5V option, that would be nice for recharging many small or hand-held devices, like my Treo phone. USB-provided +5V would be even better, although there are many, generic +5V power cable adapters to USB too.
Huaer 608 Series: +5V, +12V and +16V or +19V options
After extensive research, I finally decided on a relatively new option. After much investigation, I found that Huaer Electronics Limited, based on out of Hong Kong -- yes, Chinese, not Japanese -- had the best solution I had seen yet. Although they are relatively new (founded in the late '90s), in the wake of Sony's battery fiasco, Huaer had been aggressively marketing various distributors with its replacement batteries for Dell, Gateway, Toshiba and the handful of other OEMs with recalls. After all, even many of Sony's batteries are now fabbed in China as well, as brand name means squat these days.
The Huaer 608 series, also distributed by Ovone (among other OEMs), offers three (3) key outputs:
- "Primary" V @ up to 6A -- "Primary" voltage varies by model
- +12V @ up to 2A -- perfect for most DVD players or external hard drives)
- USB +5V @ up to 1A -- usable for countless, small/hand-held devices)
Allegedly you can use up to 2 outputs simultaneously, at least not when charging, although all 3 are never recommended. I think it really all depends on how much current draw. E.g., if the "Primary" V is +19V, at 6A, that's 114W maximum assuming the battery can only provide -- at most -- the "Primary" V up to its maximum current and not more. So if you're notebook uses an A/C adapter with 90W DC output, or +19V at 4.74A, that leaves 24W, which is +12V at 2A.
The Huaer 608 series uses a Lithium Polymer (Li-Polymer). It's as stable of a Lithium solution as one can get. The Lithium salt is laminated with its electrodes, removing the need for pressure, especially any metal enclosure. This basically removes its flammability and mitigates any explosion potential. Although it's still Lithium salt and can combust with an over-volt, it won't be self-sustaining on its own materials. The bonus is that Li-Poly batteries can be nice'n thin, as the 608 series is at only 0.75" (sub-20mm) thick in a standard 8.5"x11" letter size!
In fact, I can fit two (2) "atop one another" on the "other side of the divider" in my Kensington 62232 SaddleBag Sport 17" backpack**'s notebook compartment. I actually set the battery "atop" of my Ultra ULT31436 RJ11/RJ45/USB1.1/FireWire Cable Kit**, as the 0.75" thickness "fits into the groove" of the non-binded end of the cable kit case, with the ports "sticking up" (and closer to the top of the bag). I'm surprised the unit doesn't get hot at all, and it takes a good 2+ hours to even be "warm," but clearly sub-100F. It seems that Li-Poly is also much more temperate too!
**NOTE: I only paid $49.99 - $24.99 rebate (yes, an odd rebate amount) for the Kensington and $29.99 - $20 rebate for the Ultra kit. I received the Kensington rebate in about 2 months, the Ultra was just a more recent purchase (but I've received all Ultra rebates from OnRebate.COM and Rebate-Zone.COM thus far). I highly recommend the features of the Kensington 17" SaddleBag Sport -- you can see it easily in the dark, and the storage capacity/layout is the ultimate, while still fitting under Boeing and Airbus seats (and meeting FAA regulations for under-seat backpacks, unlike other 17" designs).
The main downside to Li-Poly is that it is capable of less recharges than common Li-Ion** batteries, about 500, before seriously degrading**. But I considered that issue mitigated, because I will recharge my external battery about 1/5-1/10th as often as my internal battery. I'd much rather have the size, safety, portability and other features of a Li-Poly than a Li-Ion, while staying Lithium-based (whereas other, older technology, like NiMH, options are 3x the size).
**NOTE: Bix Computers told me that 500 recharges is not unexpected for Li-Ion either. I must have mis-read some of the articles I read on-line.
The two (2) most common, 9,000mAh units are a 2.75lbs. +16V@6A unit rated at 144Wh and a 3.1lbs. +19V@6A unit rated at 171Wh. The only reseller (non-distributor, direct to the end-user) I found with these two in the US was Bix Computers, the BP140 (+16V@6A, 9000mAh, 144Wh) and the BP170 (+19V@6A, 9000mAh, 171Wh). Bix Computers provided pre-sales support via e-mail and answered most of my questions rather promptly. I ordered the BP170 for $219 and they shipped it, as advertised (within cut-offs), the same day (i.e., I ordered it in the evening EST, so very late afternoon PST, so they shipped the very next morning) without gouging me on shipping.
As a nice surprise, Bix Computers shipped two sets of cables with adapters. As such, I have had no trouble finding ends to match my +19V DC, A/C adapter-provided notebook input (even older Toshiba models) and my +12V electronics (from an external Ultra hard drive enclosure to a portable DVD player). I already have a retractable USB connector for powering my Treo, and have used it with the battery as well (while the dv9000z was on it too).
Linux and Windows 3D Performance Testing
I've run the 4 tests in the following order (with Linux Performance over Power last):
The Huaer 608 series uses a Lithium Polymer (Li-Polymer). It's as stable of a Lithium solution as one can get. The Lithium salt is laminated with its electrodes, removing the need for pressure, especially any metal enclosure. This basically removes its flammability and mitigates any explosion potential. Although it's still Lithium salt and can combust with an over-volt, it won't be self-sustaining on its own materials. The bonus is that Li-Poly batteries can be nice'n thin, as the 608 series is at only 0.75" (sub-20mm) thick in a standard 8.5"x11" letter size!
In fact, I can fit two (2) "atop one another" on the "other side of the divider" in my Kensington 62232 SaddleBag Sport 17" backpack**'s notebook compartment. I actually set the battery "atop" of my Ultra ULT31436 RJ11/RJ45/USB1.1/FireWire Cable Kit**, as the 0.75" thickness "fits into the groove" of the non-binded end of the cable kit case, with the ports "sticking up" (and closer to the top of the bag). I'm surprised the unit doesn't get hot at all, and it takes a good 2+ hours to even be "warm," but clearly sub-100F. It seems that Li-Poly is also much more temperate too!
**NOTE: I only paid $49.99 - $24.99 rebate (yes, an odd rebate amount) for the Kensington and $29.99 - $20 rebate for the Ultra kit. I received the Kensington rebate in about 2 months, the Ultra was just a more recent purchase (but I've received all Ultra rebates from OnRebate.COM and Rebate-Zone.COM thus far). I highly recommend the features of the Kensington 17" SaddleBag Sport -- you can see it easily in the dark, and the storage capacity/layout is the ultimate, while still fitting under Boeing and Airbus seats (and meeting FAA regulations for under-seat backpacks, unlike other 17" designs).
The main downside to Li-Poly is that it is capable of less recharges than common Li-Ion** batteries, about 500, before seriously degrading**. But I considered that issue mitigated, because I will recharge my external battery about 1/5-1/10th as often as my internal battery. I'd much rather have the size, safety, portability and other features of a Li-Poly than a Li-Ion, while staying Lithium-based (whereas other, older technology, like NiMH, options are 3x the size).
**NOTE: Bix Computers told me that 500 recharges is not unexpected for Li-Ion either. I must have mis-read some of the articles I read on-line.
The 608 is available in current-hour capacities of 4,000-13,000mAh, depending on "Primary" V output as follows from the manual (sans the fact that I've calculated the equivalent Watt-hours):
- 608-AH (+19V)
- "A" 9000mAh, 19V@6A, 171Wh
- "A1" 4500mAh, 19V@4.5A, 85.5Wh
- "A2" 6000mAh, 19V@6A, 114Wh
- 608-BH (+16V)
- "B" 9000mAh, 16V@6A, 144Wh
- "B1" 4500mAh, 16V@4.5A, 72Wh
- "B2" 6000mAh, 16V@6A, 96Wh
- 608-CM (+12V)
- "C" 13000mAh, 12V@6A, 156Wh
- "C1" 6500mAh, 12V@6A, 78Wh
- "C2" 6000mAh, 12V@6A, 72Wh
The A/C charger input provides a standard +12V DC @ 4.2A (the manual states the battery charges at +12V @ 4A), and takes up to a full 7 hours to charge when depleted (which makes sense as +12V @ 4A = 48VA). I verified this as at least 5-6 hours to reach 4 LEDs (and typically at least 6 to get the "green" charge LED), as I have depleted the battery a total of 4 times now for my Performance Tests.
Bix Computers Offers the 9,000mAh (144-171Wh) Units
Bix Computers Offers the 9,000mAh (144-171Wh) Units
The two (2) most common, 9,000mAh units are a 2.75lbs. +16V@6A unit rated at 144Wh and a 3.1lbs. +19V@6A unit rated at 171Wh. The only reseller (non-distributor, direct to the end-user) I found with these two in the US was Bix Computers, the BP140 (+16V@6A, 9000mAh, 144Wh) and the BP170 (+19V@6A, 9000mAh, 171Wh). Bix Computers provided pre-sales support via e-mail and answered most of my questions rather promptly. I ordered the BP170 for $219 and they shipped it, as advertised (within cut-offs), the same day (i.e., I ordered it in the evening EST, so very late afternoon PST, so they shipped the very next morning) without gouging me on shipping.
As a nice surprise, Bix Computers shipped two sets of cables with adapters. As such, I have had no trouble finding ends to match my +19V DC, A/C adapter-provided notebook input (even older Toshiba models) and my +12V electronics (from an external Ultra hard drive enclosure to a portable DVD player). I already have a retractable USB connector for powering my Treo, and have used it with the battery as well (while the dv9000z was on it too).
Linux and Windows 3D Performance Testing
I've run the 4 tests in the following order (with Linux Performance over Power last):
- Linux A/C, Power over Performance**: Around 4.75 hours (Doom 3)
- Windows A/C (fixed setting**): Over 3.25 hours (Doom 3)
- Windows A/C (fixed setting**): Over 3.25 hours (Medieval II: Total War)
- Linux A/C, Performance over Power**: Over 3.5 hours (Doom 3)
I wasn't buying this external to test at normal DVD playing or 2D. I know this battery will go 8-10 hours under such load. I wanted to crank out the 3D of the GeForce Go 7600. One thing I love about Linux is the standardization** at kernel and user-space utility support level. Using the GNOME GUI for Power options (KDE has its equivalent, which uses the same, single, unified** kernel ACPI interfaces and same, single, unified** support utilities) I can tell it, even if it's on A/C power (from either the DC input from the A/C adapter output or an external battery providing DC, such as this case), to act like battery, as well as go "full bore" with performance over power -- so I tested for both.**
So with Power over Performance (again, an option on even assumed A/C adapter input**), I got almost 5 hours (may have been just as close to 4.5 hours -- as I wasn't too accurate on that first run), say a solid 4.75 hours, running a full 3D accelerated application (Doom 3). Although it was a tad sluggish on the Go 7600 as it basically "minimized power usage." With Performance over Power, I got over 3.5 hours running a full 3D accelerated application (Doom 3 -- but no more sluggishness at "full Go 7600 power").
As I hinted, there is one (1) mode and one mode only** I could use under Windows, "full power," when it sees me on assumed A/C (which it's not with the external battery, but it's coming in on the DC input as if using an A/C adapter). It only offers other options when on battery. I could not find any HP BIOS, Windows utility or other solution, as the Windows power control panel won't let me set options that the standard Linux interfaces to (which both GNOME, KDE and other desktop GUI panels all unify on, which means it doesn't matter what "pretty little window" you use in Linux, all the options are there!). The fan was whining constantly at 100% (not even what Linux does, as its ACPI is more power-effective for the same performance because it manages so many things well), and the CPU area was seriously hot (which makes it a good thing I took the Li-Ion battery out!).
In the end, I got over 3:15 (3.25, but not nearly over 3.5 hours like Linux) with Windows running both Doom 3, as well as Medieval II: Total War, a session with each. To ensure that Linux wasn't getting the benefit of a "newer battery," I ran the equivalent "full power" Linux Doom 3 session after these two (run number 4), and got another, full 15 minutes with no distinguishable difference in performance. I attribute this to the more dynamic control Linux has over various aspects of the dv9000z -- from the Turion x2 to the fan control, all via standard ACPI calls.
**SIDE NOTE: People think Linux lacks standards, and that's entirely false. Linux systems have one (1) subsystem and only one, single subsystem to support something -- whether its printers (CUPS, instead of GDI v. PCL v. Postscript that often conflicts in Windows between vendors, let alone Windows spooler v. Windows IPP support is a PITA) or mainboard "Fake" RAID (FRAID via dmraid, instead of countless vendor drivers, some vendors even conflict with their own drivers!) or scanners (Sane, including 1 standard front-end/utility suite, unlike Windows TWAIN, which is a recipe for conflicting GUI-subsystem disasters) or, in this case, ACPI power management -- there is 1 kernel subsystem and 1 set of utilities.
That means I can easily configure the computer to act differently on battery and direct DC input (assumed A/C adapter) with the standard GUI for whatever desktop I'm using (I use GNOME, many other people use KDE) that goes back to the single kernel subsystem and single utility suite. This including telling the system not to not assume it should suck up the power as much as it can as if the DC input really is the A/C adapter and keep the fan on whining, because I am -- in this case -- on external battery, that comes through the external DC input. Under Windows, the standard Windows power panel doesn't give me that option, nor anything else, and I still can't find the HP utility that does, so I need to find a 3rd party utility or some registry hack.
More on LED Lights and Charge Status
There are five (5) LEDs on the front of the unit (opposite the inputs/outputs), four (4) power status and one (1) charge status. The charge status is red when charging, green when charging is complete. The power status shows up when charging or when you press the "Test" button, and the four (4) LEDs light up from left-to-right as follows ...
And since the duration of their shelf-life is actually better if you have a "lower charge" (storing Li-Ion/Poly) at higher charges actually reduces lifespan), aim for 2 LEDs or "just into" 1 LED. Although the "off switch" (one of the nice things about having an external, Li-Ion/Poly battery) actually helps prolong the battery life, because (I assume) it turns off some of the output regulation logic (which is also and directly proportional to the current charge). The input regulation logic, of course, is directly powered by the input itself when it's so being charged (and doesn't reduce battery charge, of course).
So with Power over Performance (again, an option on even assumed A/C adapter input**), I got almost 5 hours (may have been just as close to 4.5 hours -- as I wasn't too accurate on that first run), say a solid 4.75 hours, running a full 3D accelerated application (Doom 3). Although it was a tad sluggish on the Go 7600 as it basically "minimized power usage." With Performance over Power, I got over 3.5 hours running a full 3D accelerated application (Doom 3 -- but no more sluggishness at "full Go 7600 power").
As I hinted, there is one (1) mode and one mode only** I could use under Windows, "full power," when it sees me on assumed A/C (which it's not with the external battery, but it's coming in on the DC input as if using an A/C adapter). It only offers other options when on battery. I could not find any HP BIOS, Windows utility or other solution, as the Windows power control panel won't let me set options that the standard Linux interfaces to (which both GNOME, KDE and other desktop GUI panels all unify on, which means it doesn't matter what "pretty little window" you use in Linux, all the options are there!). The fan was whining constantly at 100% (not even what Linux does, as its ACPI is more power-effective for the same performance because it manages so many things well), and the CPU area was seriously hot (which makes it a good thing I took the Li-Ion battery out!).
In the end, I got over 3:15 (3.25, but not nearly over 3.5 hours like Linux) with Windows running both Doom 3, as well as Medieval II: Total War, a session with each. To ensure that Linux wasn't getting the benefit of a "newer battery," I ran the equivalent "full power" Linux Doom 3 session after these two (run number 4), and got another, full 15 minutes with no distinguishable difference in performance. I attribute this to the more dynamic control Linux has over various aspects of the dv9000z -- from the Turion x2 to the fan control, all via standard ACPI calls.
**SIDE NOTE: People think Linux lacks standards, and that's entirely false. Linux systems have one (1) subsystem and only one, single subsystem to support something -- whether its printers (CUPS, instead of GDI v. PCL v. Postscript that often conflicts in Windows between vendors, let alone Windows spooler v. Windows IPP support is a PITA) or mainboard "Fake" RAID (FRAID via dmraid, instead of countless vendor drivers, some vendors even conflict with their own drivers!) or scanners (Sane, including 1 standard front-end/utility suite, unlike Windows TWAIN, which is a recipe for conflicting GUI-subsystem disasters) or, in this case, ACPI power management -- there is 1 kernel subsystem and 1 set of utilities.
That means I can easily configure the computer to act differently on battery and direct DC input (assumed A/C adapter) with the standard GUI for whatever desktop I'm using (I use GNOME, many other people use KDE) that goes back to the single kernel subsystem and single utility suite. This including telling the system not to not assume it should suck up the power as much as it can as if the DC input really is the A/C adapter and keep the fan on whining, because I am -- in this case -- on external battery, that comes through the external DC input. Under Windows, the standard Windows power panel doesn't give me that option, nor anything else, and I still can't find the HP utility that does, so I need to find a 3rd party utility or some registry hack.
More on LED Lights and Charge Status
There are five (5) LEDs on the front of the unit (opposite the inputs/outputs), four (4) power status and one (1) charge status. The charge status is red when charging, green when charging is complete. The power status shows up when charging or when you press the "Test" button, and the four (4) LEDs light up from left-to-right as follows ...
- 1 LED = 25%
- 2 LEDs = 50%
- 3 LEDs = 75%
- All 4 LEDs = 90-100%
This may be bit misleading for those not used to external Lithium-based power packs (as compared to NiCD or NiMH), but they make sense since Lithium cells never drop below 30-35% charge, and it's recommended you stick around 40% when storing. What that really translates into is ... (reverse order)
- 4 LEDs = "Full charge," after 5-10% use, it will drop to ...
- 3 LEDs = "Mainstay," which is where you'll get 60-70% of your time, before ...
- 2 LEDs = "Used" (long-term store charge), you've now spent about 75%, before ...
- 1 LED = "Well used" (ideal store charge) heading towards minimum, final 5-10% battery time, until ...
- No LEDs = Beeps after a few minutes, shut down ASAP!
And since the duration of their shelf-life is actually better if you have a "lower charge" (storing Li-Ion/Poly) at higher charges actually reduces lifespan), aim for 2 LEDs or "just into" 1 LED. Although the "off switch" (one of the nice things about having an external, Li-Ion/Poly battery) actually helps prolong the battery life, because (I assume) it turns off some of the output regulation logic (which is also and directly proportional to the current charge). The input regulation logic, of course, is directly powered by the input itself when it's so being charged (and doesn't reduce battery charge, of course).
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