What a cheap lens can give you (and not)

As you may have heard before, I'm a photography noob. People say digital photography removes the requirement to be a photographer. In the traditional sense, yes. But it still requires a photographer to take solid photos -- even in the digital age, and especially when you have a Digital SLR (dSLR) camera. I'm still learning, and I expect to learn for quite awhile.

I personally moved from Point'n Shoot because the superzooms cost way too much money for way too little of what you really get. I wanted better shutter, reach with at least decent aperture, 3 frames-per-second shots and a few other goodies -- including shake reduction as I'd be standing, but without the costly "in-lens" route. See my first blog article, Digital Photo: Beyond Pixels and Zooms, for more on that.

So what can $500 get you in a dSLR? Everything you can see in my Flickr slideshow, Rhode Island National Guard Airshow (2007Jun23). Other than a few, poor photos posted purposely to illustrate issues (like being unable to capture, without blur, a F-18 breaking 500 knots), and those pictures that explicitly state they are "Cropped," my slideshow has unedited photos from full size (6MP 3008x2000, although Flickr resizes to 1024x768 or under -- 1024x681 in the case of my 3:2 aspect APS-C sensor). All of these Photos were taken with the Pentax K100D free standing -- no tripod and not even "bracing" my body (not even kneeling except for 3 other shots not shown). The lenses used where two (2) of the most basic -- it's DA 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 "kit" lens plus the $220 DA 50-200mm f/4.0-5.6 added lens which has a $150 mail-in rebate when purchased with the K100D (either body-only or body+lens -- which normally only has a $50, and the 50-200mm a separate $50). The Hoya 52mm circular polarizer used in a few shots is available for $20.

Again, unless the filename says "cropped," these are the original 6MP 3008x2000 except as resized by Flickr (to make 1024x768 or smaller). If there is any blur, I will comment on it under each photo, even if you can't see it here (other than the Angels 5 and 6 pass, you shouldn't). In all other cases, assume it's darn good down to the pixel, or maybe 1 out of every 2 pixels in the worst case. Yes, you will find better resolution, fidelity, reduced CAs and other things with some other dSLR solutions -- and you'll pay a lot more too, especially in the lenses. Of course, Pentax offers the K10D if you're an expert, shoot RAW all-the-time and know about 100x as much as I do about photography.

The biggest issue in using a "cheap lens" like the DA 50-200mm f/4.0-5.6 is that darn shutter speed at f/5.6+. I could only get 1/750-1000 on this fairly good (although not perfect) day. Adding the circular polarizer makes things impossible above 1/250-350, although it's quite nice for slower or still shots. Until the DA 55-300mm comes out (please Pentax, make it f/4.0 all-the-way), or I just decide to drop the dough for a serious 200-300mm auto-focus f/4.0 (or even f/2.8 in the case of 200mm) like the DA*60-250mm f/4.0 or the forthcoming DA*300mm f/4.0 prime, I don't see myself getting any better. Although that might be fine.

I bought the combo for American football-speed sports, not the 300-500 knot velocities of jet aircraft. For that, it will do fine. I'll still keep experimenting with other lens (like the new Vivitar 400mm f/5.6 manual I have, not used to take anything here), but I cannot complement the K100D enough for its price at $500 (after rebate in the US) for the two (2) lens kit+telezoom solution, the built-in shake reduction (SR) and other things that just make it "easy" to do everything with program and shutter priority, a slight EV stepping or bracketing and little else.

How To Fill Out Rebates

With the exception of Hanns-G** LCD rebates and the shipment issues I've experienced with eCost.COM**, I have received virtually every rebate I've filled out -- and that's about 50 in the past 12 months (if not more). I've received checks from alleged "trouble" retailers like TigerDirect and the like. I believe the reason I get my rebates returned is because I don't give the processing agent an excuse to not find something. I hope these simple recommendations help others as well.

Here's my recommended procedure ...

1. Read all directions when you buy
2. Biggie: Enumerate all items (if they are not already)
3. Biggie: Attach items to letter (US) or A4 (ISO) sized paper
4. Biggie: Enumerate all included pages
5. Biggie: Supplement hand-written fields with printed/stamped address
6. Verify everything
7. Make photocopies
8. Use the correct postage


1. Read all directions when you buy

That includes the rebate begin and end periods -- especially before you buy. It's not unheard of for resellers to advertise before a date, although most consumer laws (especially for those of us who are Florida residents) are now causing repeated offenders some serious legal issues. You also want to be certain you buy the correct SKU item or product/model number, and you want to be aware of the rebate periods -- including any post-mark date.

But most importantly, you want to ensure you have all the required items and the required procedure down, which brings me to ...

2. Enumerate all items (if they are not already)

Every rebate form should list everything required. Good rebate forms will have every item already enumerated. Some include more than one item next to a single number. Others may just have a bullet list. Poorly written rebate forms will have no, easy-to-see list. In any case, always ensure the items to be included are enumerated.

I.e.,

• For items already enumerated with 1 item to include per line, use as is
• For items already enumerated, but some have more than 1 item per line, annotate with letters (if existing enumeration are numbers) or numbers (of existing numeration are letters)
• For bullet lists with 1 item per line, add numbers as long as they are 1 item per line
• For bullet lists with some having than 1 item per line, use numbers and numbers+letters as appropriate
  

E.g., a rebate form that says ...

• This rebate form
• The original UPC code and a copy of the invoice

Now becomes ...

1. This rebate form
2. The (a) original UPC code and a (b) copy of the invoice
   

You will use this enumeration (1 - 2a - 2b in this example) in #4.

3. Attach items to letter (US) or A4 (ISO) sized paper

Do not just stick any items, especially not cut-outs or register receipts, into the envelope. Anyone who has done any corporate expense reports for some time will note that accountants and bookkeepers don't like this either. You can be sure that rebate processing departments who are looking for an excuse to deny your rebate will use this to their advantage as well!

Instead, take a letter (US) or A4 (EU) sized sheet of paper, or whatever matches the size of the rebate form, and attach any loose items to those sheets of paper. Attach by using cellophane/clear tape to the top portion of the item. Attach as close to the top of the paper as possible. For long (longer than 11") register receipts, attach the top of the receipt and fold any portion underneath. This will also make it easier when you make photocopies in step #7.

4. Enumerate all included pages

Now the reason you enumerated items in step #2, and attached any loose items in step #3, is so you can match that enumeration on the included pages themselves in this step. 1-2-3, 1-2a-2b, etc... as necessary to line-up items in/on your included pages to the enumerated items in your rebate form. Write those numbers (or numbers+letters) in the upper-right corner of every page! Now they have no excuse because even a moron can count, right along with the rebate form!

Since most rebate processing is outsourced, rebate processors see a number of different forms. Yes, it's very likely that -- especially if you bought and submitted early -- your rebate processor could be seeing the form for the first time! If you make it easy for them, they are less likely to give you trouble. After all, they probably are compensated (or their employer is compensated) by the number of rebate forms they process -- possibly also by how many they reject.

If your form is well organized and saves them trouble, they are far more likely to process it and save rejections for those submissions that are hard-to-follow and would take more time. Sad, but true.

5. Supplement hand-written fields with printed/stamped address

Now most rebate forms require the forms to be handwritten. If you're like me, you have poor hand hand-writting (even my printed handwriting went to junk by the end of college). But just because you can't use printed labels for your address in the form's fields doesn't mean you can't attach a printed or stamped address label as well for "clarification/verification." In fact, the best place for your printed or stamped address level is right in the upper-right corner, along with your page number (or number+letter) for each item. So feel free to do it, and I recommend you do it, on each and every page in the submission.

Now they have no excuse that they couldn't read your correct and full address. Yes, you included a printed or stamped address label, but you didn't do it in the fields on the rebate form where it had to be handwritten -- you followed those rules and requirements. You are merely including an address level for clarification/verification. Furthermore, you do it on every page in the submission -- with your name and address on every page in the submission -- so the processor has no excuse for "misplacing" any page either!

6. Verify everything

This one should be obvious, but verify everything. Ensure your numeration is correct, all fields are filled out and you have the correct info -- including a UPC code and not some other bar code, like a shipping code. Don't laugh, I almost did that once. When in doubt, include both codes if you're really unsure. E.g., HP likes to put up to 7 bar codes on its products -- yikes! You can include all bar codes on the same page as the UPC code is enumerated to be included on.

Verify again after you write the address on the envelope -- which you do before you sealing the envelope with the contents, right? Now, unfortunately, because most rebate forms are purposely vague -- by "hand written" they may also include the envelope itself. So other than your return address, which can be stamped or a label (at least I've always done that), you may have to hand-write their address, and it's probably good to just always do that. Write clearly and, as I always do, put the Zip Code (especially if it's a 9 digit) on its own line in the lower-right hand corner -- a very big 5 or 9 digits. Mail carriers like that, and most of the time, the rebate processing address is a P.O. Box. so its routed almost directly by that 9 digit zip code.

7. Make photocopies

This one should also be obvious. You want to have copies. If anything, it's always good to have copies of receipts and UPCs for any high-priced item for insurance purposes. Keep a hanging or other file folder just for rebates and high-priced items. It can't hurt to do this in general, for your own records.

8. Use the correct postage

Lastly, use the correct postage! Not all letters will be under 1oz (28.350g ISO). Use your post office's self-service machine and make postage with the exact zipcode encoded if you really want to be sure. Otherwise, put two (2) stamps if you are unsure. I often just put two (2) stamps anyway because most rebate submissions of mine are almost always 0.80 or 0.90 oz and "close enough." If your local postage is metered on every 25g (and not 30g), then you're hitting it even more than us Americans! Yeah, it costs me another $0.41 to "be safe," but it's worth it on $10+.

Conclusions

I hope these procedures -- especially items #2-5 which you may or may not have thought of prior-- will help everyone with their rebates in the future. To summarize what this does ...

A. Like with any accounting/bookkeeping submissions, loose items are a no-no with rebates too
B. Anyone can count and match-up numbers (or numbers+letters) from the rebate form to pages
C. If you write as poorly as myself, backing up the hand-written info with a printed address is ideal -- do it on every page of the submission too
D. The easier it is to processor your rebate, the less likely your submission will be "accidentally lost" (with that "statistic" left to submissions less well organized)

**Hanns-G Note: OfficeDepot.COM paid my Hanns-G $100 rebate on a 19" LCD some 9 months after my submission. They apologetically stated they were aware that many people have not been receiving them from the product vendor (Hanns-G), so they paid the rebate instead (despite the cost -- $100 in this case, and clearly a net loss for them), and included a $5 gift card for my extended patience. I've also noticed that OfficeDepot.COM has since dropped all Hanns-G products, and any reference on their web site is only for remaining stock in stores. I would advise everyone to avoid all Hanns-G rebates at this time. At the same time, ordering anything on-line from OfficeDepot.COM has the exact opposite consideration -- if the vendor doesn't honor a rebate, OfficeDepot.COM will (which I think is Florida law -- at least for retail outlets in Florida).

**eCost Note: eCost.COM took over one month to ship an item, which was after the rebate period had expired. Even though I included the order date and shipper tracking information that showed eCost did not ship in time, the rebates were still rejected. I had tried to cancel the order twice -- once on December 20th and again on the 22nd, as I ordered December 6th and it was not going to make it for Christmas. They shipped after New Year's anyway, of which I received it just after 30 days from invoice, which was outside the rebate period. Again, including documentation didn't help my cause, and it was finger-pointing from then on. I would advise anyone to avoid eCost.COM if they are interested in timely receipt of any product (let alone within a rebate period).

Commodity: DDR2, 250GB 2.5", Video Card Redux

Just a few, commodity updates ...

Vista's Marketshare, or Lack Thereof, is Your Gain

Microsoft loves to quote Vista sales. What Microsoft doesn't tell you is that their numbers, just like in the past, are merely just the licenses to OEMs and boxes sent to resellers. They are not the actual consumer or resale sales, much less not even boxes shipped with Vista at OEMs. Reality: Vista sales projections are way off, way, way off, the mark. But what does this have to do with commodity PC hardware?

DDR2 memory overproduction, massive -- and I mean massive -- over-production! We're talking 20% operating losses for many memory vendors in Q1! Why? Supply is well over demand, as people aren't upgrading for Vista because -- again -- Vista is not actually selling well, and not leaving the PC OEM as much as the Microsoft "shipment" figures show.

Memory, largely DDR2 memory which was ramped up in production as existing and new 2006+ AMD and Intel system designs were targeted, has dropped to as low as 20% as before -- as much as an 80% drop over just 6 months ago when Vista hit. DDR has also dropped, although to a lesser extent. DDR2 should continue to drop, but only a little more, through Q3 before rising again as supplies are finally reduced and vendors aren't replenishing them. Some are even switching their lines to other, similar, simple cell semiconductor devices, such as EEPROM ("flash").

So now, or possibly within the next month after a few more, small dips, is the time to buy to get some of the best deals. A single 1GB DDR2 can be had for under $25 per DIMM (such as in a 2GB "kit" of 2x1GB DIMMs) after rebates, 2GB DDR2 for around $75+ per DIMM (such as in a 4GB "kit" of 2x2GB DIMMs) after rebates. SO-DIMM prices notebook DDR2 are similar, with maybe a 25-50% premium. There is plenty of marketing non-sense, with sticks rated beyond DDR2-667/PC2-5300 that require over-voltage (beyond JEDEC compliant 1.8V), so be sure to read the specifications. I covered much of this (along with other DDR/DDR2 considerations) in my earlier blog article, Spring 2007 PC Assembler's Quick Guide ...

Western Digital, Others, Release 250GB in 2.5"

For a good while now, the leading capacities in 2.5" disks were 200GB at 4200pm, 160GB at 5400rpm and 100GB in 7200rpm. There is always the "sweep density" in raw data transfer rates for single user usage versus "spindle and seek times" in general, as well as heavy multi-task I/O usage. The "sweet spot" for notebooks has typically been 5400rpm, as the added 40GB in 4200rpm wasn't enough to give the "sweep density" a boost over in 5400rpm's spindle/seek. At the same time, 100GB in 7200rpm was a good 60GB less, and really didn't pay much for its premium as the "sweep density" of 160GB in 5400rpm came out best in single user usage.

But now Western Digital has released its 250GB Scorpio 5400rpm drives below $200, and Seagate and other vendors have their new 5400rpm and 7200rpm products coming on-line. As such, 160GB has become very commodity around $100 -- just above $0.60/GB -- and even 250GB is almost worth their price at under $0.80/GB for leading capacity. There may also be some solid 7200rpm products in a 200GB shortly as well, possibly challenging 5400rpm for the mainstream. But for now, 160GB or 250GB (at the leading edge) 2.5" drives of 5400rpms are still the "best bang for the buck."

Video Card Redux: 6600GT/7600GS ($30/50), 7900GS ($100) and 8800GTS ($250)

Well, Computex has arrived, and there is absolutely no word on a possible nVidia G81 "7900" series or any offer of a follow-up AMD-ATI X600 offering beyond the initial 2900 product. As such, waiting for a G81 or other option is now very likely to be a 6+ month wait, if not longer. This definition changes my view of the high-end.

In my previous "Commodity" update, at $50 or under, I mentioned the nVidia NV43 w/128-bit GDDR3, the GeForce 6600GT, available for $30 after rebates. It's a great deal for the price. Likewise, when you find the nVidia G72 w/128-bit DDR2, the GeForce 7600GS, available for $50 (or less) after rebates, it too is still a great move for the price. Continue to avoid anything GeForce 6200, 7100 and 7300 since they are much slower with 64-bit memory, and often no cheaper (if not more in cost). Wait for the deal on various deal-sites for the 6600GT or 7600GS if you don't want to spend more, let alone understand the new GeForce 8500 with 128-bit DDR2 offers you nothing better (forget the DX10 marketing, as I mentioned before in comparison to the old Ti4 v. FX debate on the prior DX9).

Likewise, in the previous update, I mentioned the entry-level nVidia G71 w/256-bit GDDR3, the GeForce 7900GS. It is now finding itself regularly available for $100 after rebates, and even under $125 without a rebate. The GeForce 7900GS is definitely the "card for now" that gets within 25% of the top performance of any G71/7000 series, so don't look anywhere else. Although there has been a few deals on the 8600GTS/GT with 128-bit GDDR3 that brings them down to near or even slightly under $150 after rebate under, it's hard to best the price-performance of the 7900GS around $100. So if you want to spend only $100, the 7900GS is your baby, period. Continue to avoid GeForce 8600GT/GTS w/128-bit GDDR3 products at $200+, because you can do better, and don't bother paying anything close (let alone more) for the 7600GT w/128-bit GDDR3 which doesn't come close to the 7900GS w/256-bit GDDR3.

Again now given the fact that no G81 8900 series is to be even mentioned, the existing G80 GeForce 8800 series is still the king. The 8800GTS 320MB w/320-bit GDDR3 card has now hit as low as $230 after rebate, and $250 after rebate is becoming a regular deal every few weeks. So since the 8800GTS 320MB can be had for $250 after rebate, there is no reason to pay around $200 for a much, much slower and less capable 8600 w/128-bit GDDR3 series, period. Just don't let the sales and marketing fool you -- you either should save money now and spend only around $100 on a 7900GS w/256-bit GGDR3, or just go the 8800GTS w/320-bit GDDR3 route for $250 (or under) in its 320MB incarnation.

Wait for the deals in all cases ...
- $30 for 6600GT, or $50 for 7600GS (forget 6200, 7100 or 7300 -- and the 8500 is no better)
- Near $100 for 7900GS (forget 7600GT or 8600 series, let alone 8500)
- $250 (or even significantly under) for the 8800GTS 320MB

No reason to buy another nVidia option, period -- and don't even look to ATI if you run Linux (their drivers are still well beyond nVidia).

Now if you really want to spend over $300 for a GeForce 8800GTS 640MB or AMD-ATI Radeon X2900, or over $500 for a GeForce 8800GTX 768MB I won't stop you -- especially since the G81 GeForce 8900 was not even announced for future available at Computex. But I don't like spending that kind of money when the $250 (or less) 8800GTS 320MB gets you close enough at 1920x1200 or lower resolutions. If you're running at higher resolutions, then you probably have money to burn on a video card.

SLI Comment:

• The 8800GTS 320MB is a much better option than two (2) 7900GS 256MB cards, despite the added $50 (assume you already have a SLI mainboard)
  
• The 7900GS 256MB is a much better option than two (2) 7600GS 256MB cards
• The 7300GT is a joke (even dual-256MB) in SLI, just get a 6600GT 128MB (yes, even though it only has 128MB) or 7600GS 256MB instead
  

In other words, unless you go out and drop the serious dough for (2) 8800 series cards (let alone they should be the 8800GTX 768MB), forget SLI. Buying two (2) cheaper cards capable of SLI aren't going to best one card of the better quality. Sorry to those of you who bought the GeForce 7600GS or, worse yet, 7300GT SLI marketing non-sense.

Seagate Free Agent Pro Forgets eSATA Cable For a Reason

I picked up a pair of Seagate Free Agent Pro 750GB drives from Best Buy for $176/each last week when they were on-sale for $199.99 - 12% (Rewards Member). Seagate, like most other hard drive vendors, have been selling their external drives for cheaper than their internal versions. With eSATA (external SATA), I assumed it didn't matter anymore. Boy I was wrong!

I thought Seagate merely skimped on the eSATA cable in the box (only USB is included in the E2 models, USB+FireWire for the E3 models with the FireWire option) for cost reasons. That's hardly the case. As I've now been reading, in addition to the overheating issues, the Free Agent Pro's eSATA connector is very loose! Indeed, trying a number of eSATA cables now, I can verify it is very loose!

In Windows XP, it will just "hang" the system at some point without warning, sometimes during boot. In Linux, it's a bit more tactful. It keeps trying to step down the ATA signaling. I'm using very short (19" eSATA) cables here, to a Silicon Image 3132 ExpressCard/54 (notebook) as well as the nVidia nForce 4xx series (desktop using a bracket). At some point, when it drops below Ultra16 (UltraDMA mode 0), and tries to flip to PIO, it will hang in Linux as well. It's not merely the shielding or length of the SATA cable, but it clearly seems like the "loose" connector edge on the Free Agent Pro itself. Using USB, of course, solves the issue -- something I have not had to do with a Beyond Micro USB+eSATA enclosure.

This clearly leaves a very poor mark in my book with regards to Seagate, and I think the lack of an eSATA cable was intentional because of this design flaw/oversight. I mean, the whole reason for the "Pro" series is eSATA support, which is drastically faster than USB or FireWire (long story). But I'm not the only one to experience the issues with the connector, and I plan on contacting Seagate very shortly to find out just what cable I am expected to buy to get solid contact and performance.

PS, and yes, I know about the 15 minute power down default. That's not the issue. Not only did they come back up on access (within 3 seconds, even in Linux), but I use the Windows utility (when the drives were connected to USB) to disable that setting anyway. That's not the issue at all. Ironically enough, their decision to not include an eSATA cable is probably costing them more in support costs (let alone the fact that no one stocks them in retail yet).